Tashi Sumtsek
Wanla is a village in lower Ladakh located at the confluence of two streams in a side valley between Khaltse and Lamayuru. The village houses are sited on the slopes around a prominent rock hill that once boasted an impressive castle but is today dominated by the lofty structure of the three-storeyed Wanla temple. Of the castle, which was founded by the Ladakhi King Lhachen Ngaklug (ལྷ་ཆེན་ངག་ལུག་) in a tiger year of the 12th century, only ruins remain. According an inscription, the Tashi Sumtsek of Wanla was erected at the centre of the castle by a certain Bhakdarskyap (འབྷག་དར་སྐྱབ་), the eldest son of a minister of an unnamed government. This occurred most probably in the late 13th or early 14th century, an otherwise obscure period of Ladakhs history.
The Wanla temple contains three niches with large standing clay sculptures at the back (south) and the sides; an approximately 5 m high main image of an eleven-headed Avalokiteśvara flanked by 3.4 m high figures of Maitreya and Śākyamuni in the side niches. Today the Wanla Temple is named Chuchikzhal (བཅུ་གཅིག་ཞལ་, eleven-headed) after its main image, while in the inscription it is referred to as Tashi Sumtsek (བཀྲ་ཤིས་གསུམ་བརྩེགས་, auspicious three-storeyed). All the walls are covered with largely original murals. These paintings are among the earliest specimens of a Central Tibet-derived local style evidenced at several places in Ladakh (see the paintings of the Alchi Shangrong chörten). The bases and capitals of the pillars, the brackets, as well as the veranda and the door are decorated with original woodcarvings.
Literature
- Neuwirth, Holger, and Carmen Auer. 2015. The Three Storied Temple of Wanla. Graz: Verlag der Technischen Universität Graz.
- Heusgen, Wolfgang. 2010. “The Wanla Temple in Ladakh. 10 years of structural investigation and renovation.” In Heritage Conservation and Research in India. 60 years of Indo-Austrian collaboration, edited by Gabriela Krist, and Tatjana Bayerová, 73–78. Wien, Weimar: Böhlau.
- Tropper, Kurt. 2007. “The historical inscription in the gSum brtsegs temple at Wanla, Ladakh.” In Text, Image and Song in Transdisciplinary Dialogue. PIATS 2003: Tibetan Studies: Proceedings of the Tenth Seminar of the International Association for Tibetan Studies, Oxford 2003, Volume 10/7, edited by Deborah Klimburg-Salter, Kurt Tropper, and Christian Jahoda, 104–50. Leiden, Boston: Brill.
- Kozicz, Gerald. 2002. “The Wanla Temple.” In Buddhist Art and Tibetan Patronage Ninth to Fourteenth Centuries, edited by Deborah E. Klimburg-Salter, and Eva Allinger, 127–36. Leiden: Brill.
- Luczanits, Christian. 2002. “The Wanla Bkra shis gsum brtsegs.” In Buddhist Art and Tibetan Patronage Ninth to Fourteenth Centuries, edited by Deborah E. Klimburg-Salter, and Eva Allinger, 115–25. Leiden: Brill.
The Interior Decoration of Wanla
The links below give access to a draft describing and illustrating the entire interior decoration of the three-storeyed temple. While the document is unfinished and would need a major revision for publication, it contains a comprehensive account and preliminary identification of all themes represented. Unfortunately, due to a technical issue, the cross-references in the main text are largely incorrect, and for now I have to let the reader figure out how much they are off for each section.
The pdf-document is available in two formats, one in lower resolution for online viewing and one in press quality for download (390MB!). The document can be referenced as draft dating to 2015 and with link to this website, but its content cannot be replicated in any form. Please contact me if you need any of the images.