Village

The village of Nako lies at an altitude of 3625 metres, high above the last stretch of the Spiti valley. Today the village is comparatively poor, as only those families who have apple orchards at lower locations can participate in the trade which has otherwise brought prosperity to the region. The village is reached by a 7 km link from the road connecting Spiti to Kinnaur. Although in the Spiti valley, politically the region around Nako is still part of Kinnaur.

Nako was once a very important centre of Buddhism in the region. There are at least seven temples of different periods distributed all over the village, including a monastic complex (ཆོས་འཁོར་) on its western edge. Boasting four temples and a number of additional buildings, this complex preserves the earliest artistic heritage. The austere and unornamented exteriors of the buildings give little hint of the important artistic and religious legacy that lies within these walls.

The two oldest temples inside the monastic complex are the Lotsawa Lhakhang (Translator's Temple) and the Lhakhang Gongma (Upper Temple). These two temples preserve a considerable amount of their original decoration of clay sculptures, murals and ceiling panels dating back to their foundation in the first half of the 12th century. These two temples are thus described on separate pages.

A third structure, the Karchung Lhakhang (Small White Temple), preserves a once-marvellous wooden door-frame with scenes of the life of the Buddha carved on the lintel. Today it is in a deplorable state, and it is also unclear whether its present location is original. The fourth structure of a similar size to the Lhakhang Gongma and just to the side of it is today somewhat confusingly called the Gyapakpé Lhakhang (རྒྱ་དཔག་པའི་ལྷ་ཁང་, Temple of Wide Proportions).

Nako has already been visited and described by the renowned scholars A.H. Francke and Giuseppe Tucci in the first decades of the 20th century. However, only in recent years has this village and its cultural heritage again received scholarly attention. The most comprehensive publication on the site is the volume edited by Gabriela Krist, which is also available open access.

Quotation below from Francke, August Hermann. 1914 / repr. 1992. Antiquities of Indian Tibet, Part I: Personal Narrative. Vol. 38, Archaeological Survey of India, New Imperial Series. Calcutta / New Delhi: Archaeological Survey of India / Asian Educational Services: p. 32.